“Do you want to go to a hooker bar?” enquired our (thus far) charming, urbane and polite host in Istanbul. Needless to say this was greeted with bashful silence and much mental re-evaluation of said host. Although, to be fair, I had just applied for a job writing erotic fiction (failed to get it). “You know, with the big pipes?”. Ah! A HookAH bar? With our minds firmly out of the gutter we were taken to Orçun’s local hookah bar where we indulged in mint and rose flavoured smoke and some tea. Very civilised.